Target

Here's another freebie for you, this time fingerless mitts for men. These were made for my bf's Dad, who belongs to a gun club and enjoys his target shooting. I thought they might help to keep his hands warm in winter without impeding his aim. As always, use the pattern for whatever/whoever you like, but please credit me by linking back to my blog for the pattern. And if you find any errors or something isn't clear, let me know and I'll endeavour to fix it.

Target

You will need:

Approximately 60gms of fingering weight yarn. I used Haven by Naturally in black and Patonyle sock yarn in navy. You don't need 2 colours, they'd look just fine all in one colour.

If you're using 2 colours, I've called the cuff colour "colour A" throughout, and the hand colour "colour B"

2 small safety pins to use as stitch holders

2.5mm circular needles

A stitch marker or 2 if you feel more comfortable using them during the increases.

The pattern:

With Colour A, CO 68 sts. Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist stitches. You should have 34 sts on each needle.
K2, p2 rib for 2 inches, break colour A and join in Colour B.

Pattern rounds –
Rnds 1 & 2: K all sts
Rnds 3 & 4: K2, P2 around.
Continue working these 4 pattern rounds until you have worked a further 2 inches.

Thumb gusset –
Into the first st of the next round, kfb. Continue the round in pattern.
At the beginning of the next round, kfb, kfb, continue the round in pattern.
Next round – kfb, k1, kfb, continue the round in pattern.

Next round - kfb, k3, kfb, continue the round in pattern.
Continue increasing on each round until you have 29 extra sts at the beginning of the round. On the next round, work those sts and place them onto 2 safety pins; 15 on the first and 14 on the second. Forget about those sts for now, and continue with the remaining sts (you should still have 34 on each needle) in pattern for a further 8 rounds.

Finger cuff –
Break Colour B and rejoin Colour A. Work k2, p2 rib for another 2 inches (more or less, depending on the recipient’s taste in length), and cast off knitwise.

Thumb cuff –
Put the stitches from the safety pins back onto your needles. Pick up an extra 3 sts from between the thumb gusset and the main body of the mitt (this will help to close up any gaps) and knit 1 round with Colour A. K2, p2 rib for 7 more rounds, then cast off knitwise.

Do it all over again.

Work in ends, and wear with pride.

Ok, Enough Procrastination!!!

I've been putting this off for long enough. Here's another pattern for anyone who wants it. Again, feel free to use it for whatever you want, but please link back to my blog for the pattern. Ta much!

Heard it Through the Grapevine...

I wanted to create something a little different, and to have a go at designing a sock pattern. There are so many out there, but now there’s a little bit of me too. This was made for a fellow Raveller who visited me from Australia, and while she was here she bought me some pretty sock yarn. I wanted to do something especially for her as well. This is a pattern for those sock knitters out there who have some experience; I won’t be detailing stuff like heel flaps and heel turns. Use whatever heel flap, heel turn and toe are your favourites.

You will need:

Size 2.5mm needles. I’ve written this pattern for magic loop.
100gm of fingering weight sock yarn. I’ve used Opal Uni, but it would work with any other. I would recommend something that’s either plain coloured or semi-solid so that you can see the lace pattern.

CO 64 sts. (The stitches down either side of the sock are in stockinette, so if your foot is bigger than average, add extra sts in increments of 4). Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist your stitches. (32 sts per needle).

Work in 2x2 rib (or 1x1 if you prefer). I don’t particularly enjoy ribbing so I usually don’t do more than 1 ¼ inches but it’s entirely up to you.

The Pattern:

Rnd 1 – *K6, p2, k9, yo, k1, yo, k3, sl 1, k2tog, psso, p2, k6. Rep from * to end.

Rnds 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 – K all sts.

Rnd 3 - *K6, p2, k10, yo, k1, yo, k2, sl 1, k2tog, psso, p2, k6. Rep from * to end.

Rnd 5 - *K6, p2, k3tog, k4, yo, k1, yo, k3, [yo, k1] twice, sl 1, k2tog, psso, p2, k6. Rep from * to end.

Rnd 7 - *K6, p2, k3tog, k3, yo, k1, yo, k9, p2, k6. Rep from * to end.

Rnd 9 - *K6, p2, k3tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k10, p2, k6. Rep from * to end.

Rnd 11 - *K6, p2, k3tog, [k1, yo] twice, k3, yo, k1, yo, k4, sl 1, k2tog, psso, p2, k6. Rep from * to end.

*** On rnd 11 of the last pattern repeat for the cuff, knit as written for the front of the sock, but on the back knit as follows: K6, p2, k3tog, [k1, yo] twice, k11, p2, k6.

Repeat these 12 rounds until your cuff is the desired length. I’ve done 4 pattern repeats for my sock cuffs, giving me a total of 5 inches for the cuff.

Work your chosen heel flap and heel turn, pick up your gusset stitches, and carry the pattern on down the top of the foot. When the foot is approximately 2 inches shorter than your foot, end with row 11 of the pattern ***K6, p2, k3tog, [k1, yo] twice, k11, p2, k6*** as for the back of the cuff.

Work your toe decreases, kitchener, and finish off. Now cast the other one on before Second Sock Syndrome kicks in!

Matching Sapphire & Steel Mitts... but still no socks.

Sapphire & Steel Fingerless Mitts

More hideous cellphone camera pics. And they look so much better on than sitting on the table! They do look very small when they're not on, but I've even made The Man try them on and they seem to stretch forever.

Ok the pattern...

You will need:

Approx 40gm of fingering weight yarn

2.5mm circular needles

3.25mm circular needles

2 buttons approx 1" diameter for accent.

Using 3.25mm needles, cast on 64sts. Make sure it's a stretchy cast on - I used long tail cast on over both needles together (as I always do). Do not join for working in the round yet, but knit in K2, P2 rib for 1.5".

Change to 2.5mm needles, join for working in the round, and knit 2 rounds plain.

Now, as with the cowl, you'll be working the opposite rib, so it'll be P2, K2 rib for 2".

Work another 32 sts, which will take you to the middle of the round. This is your new starting point, and it will remain this way for the rest of the mitt. This will make sure that the button is on the outside of your wrist.

Next round - K1, Kfb, PM. Continue in rib until last st of round, PM, kfb, k1.

Next round - K2, kfb, PM. Continue in rib until last 2 sts of round, PM, kfb, k1.

Continue increasing 2 sts per round in this manner until you have 14 sts before the first marker and 14 sts after the 2nd marker. Now the explaining gets tricky. You'll need to place 26 of those sts onto waste yarn, which will mean knitting all of the new sts so you can do so. Continue in P2, K2 rib on the remaining hand sts for a further 1".

Knit 2 rounds plain, then change your rib back to K2, P2 rib and knit for another 1.5" Cast off knitwise (make sure your cast off is not too tight).

Ok, back to the thumb. You'll need to get those 26 sts back on to the circular needle (yep, still the 2.5mm), 13 sts on each needle. Pick up 2 sts from between the thumb gusset and the body of the mitt and knit one round. K2, P2 rib for a further .75", then cast off thumb sts (again, cast off knitwise and keep it loose).

Work in ends, and sew button at the top of the flat rib section. Do it all over again.

If anything in this doesn't make sense or is confusing, let me know and I'll try to make it clearer.